Laceyog ib qho khoom xa tuaj. Cov ntaub mesh, thawj zaug tes-woven los ntawm crochet. Cov neeg European thiab Asmeskas siv ntau yam ntawm cov poj niam hnav khaub ncaws, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nyob rau hauv cov khaub ncaws yav tsaus ntuj thiab cov khaub ncaws tshoob. Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 18th, European tsev hais plaub thiab cov txiv neej noble kuj tau dav siv nyob rau hauv cuffs, dab tshos tiab, thiab thom khwm.
Keeb kwm ntawm lace
Cov qauv paj ntawm cov ntaub lace tsis tau los ntawm kev xaws lossis kev sib xyaw, tab sis los ntawm kev sib ntswg cov xov. Hauv Tebchaws Europe hauv xyoo pua 16th thiab 17th, kev siv cov xov lace-core tau dhau los ua qhov chaw tau nyiaj rau cov kws ua haujlwm ib leeg thiab yog ib txoj hauv kev rau cov poj niam aristocratic siv lawv lub sijhawm. Lub sijhawm ntawd, kev thov rau lace yog qhov loj heev, uas ua rau cov neeg ua haujlwm lace ua haujlwm nkees heev. Lawv feem ntau ua haujlwm hauv qab nthab pwm, thiab lub teeb tsis muaj zog, yog li lawv tsuas pom cov log tig.
Txij li thaum John Heathcoat tau tsim lub tshuab lace loom (patented xyoo 1809), kev tsim khoom lace hauv tebchaws Askiv tau nkag mus rau lub sijhawm kev lag luam, lub tshuab no tuaj yeem tsim cov lace puag zoo heev thiab tsis tu ncua. Cov kws ua tes tsuas yog xav tau cov duab kos rau ntawm lub vev xaib, uas feem ntau yog ua los ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav. Ob peb xyoos tom qab, John Leavers tau tsim lub tshuab uas siv lub hauv paus ntawm Fabkis jacquard loom los tsim cov qauv lace thiab lace mesh, thiab qhov ntawd kuj tau tsim cov kab lis kev cai lace hauv Nottingham. Lub tshuab Leavers yog qhov nyuaj heev, muaj 40000 qhov chaw thiab 50000 hom kab, xav tau ua haujlwm los ntawm ntau lub kaum sib txawv.
Niaj hnub no, qee lub tuam txhab lace zoo heev tseem siv cov tshuab Leavers. Karl Mayer tau qhia txog cov tshuab warp knitting xws li Jacquardtronic thiab Textronic los tsim cov leavers lace lace, tab sis pheej yig dua, zoo thiab sib dua.compose
Cov xov paj ntaub xws li rayon, nylon, polyester thiab spandex kuj hloov pauv qhov xwm txheej ntawm lace, tab sis qhov zoo ntawm cov xov paj siv los tsim lace yuav tsum zoo heev, nrog rau qhov suav ntau dua li cov xov paj siv rau kev knitting lossis weaving.
Cov khoom xyaw thiab kev faib tawm ntawm lace
Cov ntaub lace siv nylon, polyester, paj rwb thiab rayon ua cov khoom siv tseem ceeb. Yog tias ntxiv los ntawm spandex lossis elastic silk, elasticity tuaj yeem tau txais.
Nylon (lossis polyester) + spandex: ib qho hlua khi uas siv ntau.
Nylon + polyester + (spandex): nws tuaj yeem ua rau ob-xim lace, ua los ntawm ntau xim ntawm brocade thiab polyester dyeing.
Polyester tag nrho (lossis nylon tag nrho): nws muaj peev xwm muab faib ua ib txoj xov thiab filament, feem ntau siv rau hauv kev hnav khaub ncaws tshoob; filament tuaj yeem ua raws li cov nyhuv ntawm paj rwb.
Nylon (polyester) + paj rwb: tuaj yeem ua rau muaj xim sib txawv.
Feem ntau hais lus, cov lace hauv khw feem ntau muab faib ua cov lace fiber, paj rwb lace, paj rwb lace, paj ntaub lace thiab dej-soluble lace tsib pawg no. Txhua lace muaj nws tus kheej cov yam ntxwv, thiab lawv muaj cov txiaj ntsig thiab qhov tsis zoo sib txawv.
Lace lub zog thiab qhov tsis muaj zog
1, tshuaj fiber lace yog hom lace ntaub feem ntau, cov khoom siv raws li nylon, spandex. Nws cov qauv feem ntau yog nyias nyias, thiab nyuaj dua, yog tias kov ncaj qha rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij yuav hnov me ntsis khaus. Tab sis qhov zoo ntawm tshuaj fiber lace yog pheej yig, ntau tus qauv, ntau xim, thiab muaj zog tsis yooj yim tawg. Qhov tsis zoo ntawm tshuaj fiber lace yog tias nws tsis zoo, zha tib neeg, tsis kub siab ironing, yeej tsis muaj elasticity, tsis tuaj yeem hnav ua khaub ncaws tus kheej. Thiab feem ntau hais lus, vim yog tus nqi ntawm tshuaj fiber lace, nws feem ntau siv rau hauv cov khaub ncaws pheej yig, yog li nws yuav muab rau tib neeg ib hom "pheej yig dua".
2. Paj rwb lace feem ntau yog ib hom lace ua los ntawm paj rwb xov rau ntawm daim ntaub paj rwb, thiab tom qab ntawd txiav tawm qhov khoob ntawm daim ntaub paj rwb. Paj rwb lace kuj yog ib hom uas pom ntau, tuaj yeem pom ntawm ntau cov khaub ncaws, elasticity yeej zoo ib yam li daim ntaub paj rwb. Qhov zoo ntawm paj rwb lace yog tus nqi pheej yig, tsis yooj yim tawg, tuaj yeem nias ntawm qhov kub siab, xav tias zoo. Tab sis qhov tsis zoo ntawm paj rwb lace yog yooj yim rau wrinkle, tsawg dua cov duab, tsuas yog dawb xwb. Feem ntau hais lus, paj rwb lace yog lwm txoj hauv kev zoo yog tias koj tsis kam siv cov fiber fiber pheej yig, muaj kev nkag siab zoo ntawm tus nqi.
3, paj rwb xov lace, raws li lub npe qhia, yog siv cov paj rwb xov woven rau hauv lace. Paj rwb xov lace vim tias tag nrho cov kev siv paj rwb xov woven, yog li qhov dav dav yuav tuab dua, xav tias yuav ntxhib dua. Qhov zoo thiab qhov tsis zoo ntawm paj rwb xov lace zoo ib yam li cov paj rwb ntaub lace. Paj rwb lace yog me ntsis zoo li paj rwb lace, tus nqi yog me ntsis kim dua, thiab nws tsis yooj yim rau wrinkle, tab sis vim nws yog thicker, nws tsis yooj yim rau quav thiab khoov. Feem ntau, paj rwb xov lace feem ntau yog siv rau hauv khaub ncaws ntawm qee qhov me me lace, thiab tsis tshua pom.
4, paj ntaub lace yog nyob rau hauv ib txheej ntawm cov xov paj ntaub nrog paj rwb, polyester thiab lwm yam xov los embroider cov duab ntawm lace, thiab tom qab ntawd txiav cov qauv vim tias lub hauv ob sab yog mesh, yog li qhov kev xav yuav hloov pauv raws li qhov nyuaj ntawm lub mesh, tab sis feem ntau hais lus, cov paj ntaub mos mos ua los ntawm cov mesh mos yuav zoo dua. Piv nrog rau saum toj no 3 hom rau, qhov zoo ntawm paj ntaub lace yog xav tias mos thiab du, tsis yooj yim rau wrinkle, tuaj yeem quav, elasticity zoo dua. Qhov tsis zoo ntawm paj ntaub lace tsis yog kub siab ironing, modelling yog tsawg dua, yooj yim tawg. Feem ntau hais lus, khaub ncaws nrog cov kev xav tau siab dua rau kev mos mos thiab cov khoom siv yuav siv cov paj ntaub lace, xws li daim tiab hauv ob sab thiab ris tsho hauv qab.
5, cov ntaub lace uas yaj tau dej yog ua los ntawm cov xov polyester lossis cov ntaub viscose lace uas muaj cov qauv ntaub woven rau ntawm daim ntawv hauv ob sab, tom qab ua tiav kev siv dej kub siab los yaj cov ntawv hauv ob sab, tsuas yog tawm hauv lub cev ntaub lace xwb, txawm hais tias lub npe ntawm cov ntaub lace uas yaj tau dej. Vim tias cov ntaub lace uas yaj tau dej muaj ntau koob dua li cov saum toj no, cov ntaub lace uas yaj tau dej kuj kim dua. Qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub lace uas yaj tau dej yog tias nws zoo heev, mos thiab du, me ntsis elastic, ci ntsa iab, muaj peb sab, thiab ntau yam qauv. Qhov tsis zoo ntawm cov ntaub lace uas yaj tau dej yog tias tus nqi siab heev, tuab heev, tsis yooj yim rau quav, thiab tsis tuaj yeem nias ntawm qhov kub siab. Feem ntau hais lus, cov khaub ncaws uas muaj kev ua haujlwm zoo thiab cov khoom siv feem ntau siv cov ntaub lace uas yaj tau dej, thiab cov ntaub lace uas yaj tau dej zoo tuaj yeem ncav cuag tus nqi ntawm kaum ob lossis txawm tias pua pua yuan / 'meter'.
Lub sijhawm tshaj tawm: Plaub Hlis-02-2024