1. Kev faib tawm ntawm cov ntaub jacquard
Ib xim jacquard yog cov ntaub jacquard dyed - cov ntaub jacquard grey yog woven los ntawm jacquard loom ua ntej, thiab tom qab ntawd dyed thiab tiav. Yog li ntawd, cov ntaub jacquard dyed xov muaj ntau tshaj ob xim, cov ntaub yog nplua nuj nyob rau hauv xim, tsis monotonous, tus qauv muaj zog peb-seem nyhuv, thiab qib siab dua. Qhov dav ntawm cov ntaub tsis txwv, thiab cov ntaub paj rwb ntshiab muaj me ntsis shrinkage, tsis pill, thiab tsis ploj. Jacquard ntaub feem ntau siv tau rau cov khoom siv khaub ncaws siab thiab siab kawg lossis cov ntaub ntawv kho kom zoo nkauj (xws li cov ntaub thaiv qhov rais, cov ntaub rooj zaum). Cov txheej txheem tsim khoom ntawm jacquard ntaub yog complex. Cov xov warp thiab weft interweave nce thiab nqis los tsim cov qauv sib txawv, nrog concave thiab convex qauv, thiab cov qauv zoo nkauj xws li paj, noog, ntses, kab, noog thiab tsiaj txhu feem ntau yog woven.
Cov qauv mos mos, zoo nkauj thiab du, ci ntsa iab zoo, yooj yim dai thiab cua nkag tau, xim ruaj khov (xaj zas xim). Cov qauv ntawm cov ntaub jacquard loj thiab zoo nkauj, thiab cov xim txheej meej thiab peb-seem, thaum cov qauv ntawm cov ntaub dobby yooj yim thiab ib leeg.
SatinCov ntaub jacquard (ntaub): Cov xov warp thiab weft yog interwoven tsawg kawg yog txhua peb yarns, yog li cov xov satin ua rau cov ntaub denser, yog li cov ntaub yog tuab dua. Cov khoom satin weave kim dua li cov khoom zoo sib xws plain thiab twill weave. Cov ntaub woven nrog satin weave yog hu ua satin weave fabrics. Satin weave fabrics tuaj yeem faib ua sab pem hauv ntej thiab sab nraub qaum. Hauv ib lub voj voog weave tiav, muaj cov ntsiab lus interweaving tsawg tshaj plaws thiab cov kab ntab ntev tshaj plaws. Qhov saum npoo ntawm cov ntaub yog yuav luag tag nrho ua los ntawm warp lossis weft floating kab. Cov ntaub satin weave yog mos hauv cov qauv. Satin weave ntaub muaj sab pem hauv ntej thiab sab nraub qaum, thiab cov ntaub nto yog du thiab mos, puv ntawm luster. Cov ntaub satin feem ntau yog striped satin, hu ua satin. Muaj nyob rau hauv 40-suav 2m 4-dav satin strips thiab 60-suav 2m 8-dav satin strips. Cov txheej txheem ntawm weaving ua ntej thiab tom qab ntawd dyeing, hom ntaub no feem ntau yog xim khov kho, nthuav dav los ntawm kab kab rov tav. Cov ntaub paj rwb ntshiab shrinks me ntsis, tsis pill, thiab tsis yooj yim rau ploj mus.
2. Txoj kev saib xyuas ntaub
Kev Ntxuav Khaub Ncaws: Cov khaub ncaws yog ua los ntawm cov protein uas muaj cov fibers zoo rau kev kho mob. Tsis txhob ntxuav cov khaub ncaws rau ntawm cov khoom tsis zoo lossis ntxuav hauv lub tshuab ntxhua khaub ncaws. Cov khaub ncaws yuav tsum tau muab tso rau hauv dej txias li 5-10 feeb, thiab siv cov tshuaj ntxuav paj rwb tshwj xeeb lossis cov tshuaj ntxuav paj rwb tsis muaj zog. Siv xab npum txhuam me ntsis (yog tias ntxuav cov ntaub me me xws li cov phuam qhwv caj dab paj rwb, nws zoo dua los siv tshuaj zawv plaub hau), thiab yaug cov khaub ncaws paj rwb uas muaj xim hauv dej huv ntau zaus.
Kev Ziab Khaub Ncaws: Cov khaub ncaws yuav tsum tsis txhob raug tshav ntuj tom qab ntxuav, tsis txhob hais txog kev ziab khaub ncaws kom sov. Feem ntau, lawv yuav tsum tau ziab rau qhov chaw txias thiab muaj cua nkag. Vim tias cov teeb ultraviolet hauv lub hnub feem ntau yuav daj, ploj thiab laus cov ntaub txhob lo lo ntxhuav. Yog li ntawd, tom qab ntxuav cov khaub ncaws txhob lo lo ntxhuav, nws tsis zoo kom ntswj lawv kom tshem dej. Lawv yuav tsum tau co maj mam, thiab sab nraud yuav tsum tau cua tawm sab nraud, thiab tom qab ntawd ironed lossis co tiaj tus tom qab ziab kom txog thaum 70% qhuav.
Kev Ua Khaub Ncaws: Cov khaub ncaws tsis yooj yim puas tsuaj dua li cov tshuaj fiber, yog li ntawd muaj ib zaj lus hais tias "tsis muaj qhov tsis yooj yim puas tsuaj tsis yog cov ntaub tiag". Yog tias cov khaub ncaws puas tsuaj tom qab ntxuav, yuav tsum tau ua kom huv si, zoo nkauj thiab zoo nkauj. Thaum ua khaub ncaws, ziab cov khaub ncaws kom txog thaum lawv qhuav 70%, tom qab ntawd tsuag dej kom sib npaug, thiab tos 3-5 feeb ua ntej ua khaub ncaws. Qhov kub ntawm kev ua khaub ncaws yuav tsum tswj tau qis dua 150 ° C. Cov hlau yuav tsum tsis txhob kov cov ntaub ntawm cov ntaub ncaj qha kom tsis txhob muaj aurora.
Kev Khaws Cia: Txhawm rau khaws cov khaub ncaws, rau cov ris tsho hauv qab nyias nyias, tsho, ris tsho hauv qab,tiab, khaub ncaws pw, thiab lwm yam, ua ntej ntxuav lawv kom huv, hlau lawv kom qhuav ua ntej khaws cia. Rau cov khaub ncaws caij nplooj zeeg thiab lub caij ntuj no, cov tsho loj, Hanfu, thiab cheongsam uas tsis yooj yim tshem tawm thiab ntxuav, lawv yuav tsum tau ntxuav los ntawm kev ntxuav qhuav thiab ironed kom txog thaum lawv tiaj tus kom tiv thaiv cov pwm thiab npauj npaim. Tom qab ironing, nws kuj tuaj yeem ua lub luag haujlwm ntawm kev tua kab mob thiab tshuaj tua kab. Tib lub sijhawm, cov thawv thiab txee rau khaws cov khaub ncaws yuav tsum tau khaws cia kom huv thiab kaw kom ntau li ntau tau kom tiv thaiv cov hmoov av ua qias tuaj.
Lub sijhawm tshaj tawm: Lub Ib Hlis-10-2023
